Somehow, this time of year, when the days are growing shorter like an aging relative, and the clock seems to quicken as I merge into rushing heavy traffic on the pike, I stumble onto some way to feel more hopeful.
On this late October day, with the Red Sox on their way to their third world series in ten years, and myself on the way to visit a Sox fan who spent almost all of her 99 years on the North Shore rooting with all her might and didn't get her first championship season until she was 90, I pass right through Waltham.
In fact, anytime you go from the pike to 128 north, you pass within five minutes of a place I have far too often rushed by - Watch City Brewing.
If only I'd ever met Kelly McKnight before, you can bet I'd have worn out some treads on exit 26. And on this day it's pure good fortune to pick her brain when I amble in for a bite and a cup of cheer.
 |
| Yours truly at Watch City Brewing. In my hand, a local harvest preserved as liquid. |
The bartender stops to see what she can bring for me and I ask which beers have local ingredients. Now here's the great thing about a brewpub, knowledge of the beers on tap. So I am not surprised to get the run down of three native brews on this day made with local malt or hops and one other made with local pumpkins. Another great thing about brewpubs is seasonal beer during the season. Winter flavors can wait.
I order the Mongrel Red IPA which gets the bartender's approval. This beer has been wet hopped with hops grown in Weston at Gateways Farm, which as it turns out is on the National Register of Historic Places. You may have seen the red barn from the turnpike. Fitting, of course for a farm, in operation since 1705, to be growing the traditional New England crop of hops. This is happening more and more all over the northeast and thinking about that brightens my mood considerably.
Probably as a result of me peppering her with questions, I learn that I am speaking with none other than the brewer herself, Kelly McKnight. Turns out she's filling in for the regular bartender. Once again, on this journey through the native beer terrain, serendipity steps in and provides more and better than I expect.
As I enjoy the nutty, friendly wholesome flavors of the Mongrel, McKnight describes some of then ingredients. The fresh hops are Cascade, and the smooth, English style malt profile comes partly from the London ale yeast.
Given that Waltham's water comes out of the Quabbin Reservoir, McKnight says the relative softness is perfect for Belgian style brews, but for English, where the hops should be pronounced, she adds brewing salts to mimic English water sources. The effect is similar to table salt, as she explains it. "It brings out the flavors," she says.
I swirl a sip around and under my upper lip to get a spicy tingle of hops with a hint of mineral finish.
The Mongrel, which is light in body, but deep in color has a very slight cloudiness to it, only discernible when I peer long into the glass held up to a light. McKnight says that all her beers are unfiltered. Check another box of approval in my mind. "Unfiltered beers are healthier," I say, referring to the latent proteins and vitamins that too many breweries filter out of their brews.
The natural connection between brewer and farmer makes it easy to talk. For example, I grow black walnuts, and McKnight is undertaking the daunting task of making black walnut beer, which first requires removing the husk. This process can blacken your hands for weeks, since the husks have historically been used as wood stain and fabric dye, famously for Confederate uniforms during the Civil War.
As we commiserate over this task without shortcut, I move right down to the bottom of my glass. With more beer than I can safely drink and still navigate the beltway, I ask for just a taste of the Hops Explosion, their house IPA, but this time dry hopped with some of that Cascade harvest from Gateway Farms. This is solid, well balanced beer of the kind I find hard to put down.
As I enjoy the nutty, friendly wholesome flavors of the Mongrel, McKnight describes some of then ingredients. The fresh hops are Cascade, and the smooth, English style malt profile comes partly from the London ale yeast.
Given that Waltham's water comes out of the Quabbin Reservoir, McKnight says the relative softness is perfect for Belgian style brews, but for English, where the hops should be pronounced, she adds brewing salts to mimic English water sources. The effect is similar to table salt, as she explains it. "It brings out the flavors," she says.
I swirl a sip around and under my upper lip to get a spicy tingle of hops with a hint of mineral finish.
The Mongrel, which is light in body, but deep in color has a very slight cloudiness to it, only discernible when I peer long into the glass held up to a light. McKnight says that all her beers are unfiltered. Check another box of approval in my mind. "Unfiltered beers are healthier," I say, referring to the latent proteins and vitamins that too many breweries filter out of their brews.
The natural connection between brewer and farmer makes it easy to talk. For example, I grow black walnuts, and McKnight is undertaking the daunting task of making black walnut beer, which first requires removing the husk. This process can blacken your hands for weeks, since the husks have historically been used as wood stain and fabric dye, famously for Confederate uniforms during the Civil War.
As we commiserate over this task without shortcut, I move right down to the bottom of my glass. With more beer than I can safely drink and still navigate the beltway, I ask for just a taste of the Hops Explosion, their house IPA, but this time dry hopped with some of that Cascade harvest from Gateway Farms. This is solid, well balanced beer of the kind I find hard to put down.
Having never had the regular Hops Explosion before, I cannot tell how much the dry hops punch it up, but I am sure ordering a whole pint of this will lead to another. I need a beer that will make things just a little easier when it's time to get up and walk away.
Fenway Fungo Scottish Wee Light ale promises to be gentle with me, so I go for one of those. And besides it's malty emphasis and Valley Malt ingredients, (including smoked oats!) proves a good showcase for locally grown grains. Velvety and comforting, like a peaty, smoky, Scotch whisky and water, I swish some along the roof of my mouth to catch a flash of yeasty funk and toasty oat flavor.
I guess the hops used here are Kent Goldings, and I am close. McKnight says she used U.S. Goldings to achieve a flowery, peppery highlight. Less than four percent alcohol, but so much comforting goodness in it that I feel relaxed enough to deal with another hour of aggressive drivers.
Not only does Watch City make great beer with great local ingredients, but the brewers, McKnight and Lee Lord, are friendly and down to earth. Not that I am surprised anymore at the open welcome I receive whenever I encounter someone working with local farm products, but I am always aware of the fact that the people I have been writing about all share the common trait of being some of the coolest people I've ever met. That, plus great beer, makes this project pretty special.
So thanks, Kelly and Lee, I'll see you the Sunday after Thanksgiving at 7pm and I'll bring some books.
http://watchcitybrew.com
Fenway Fungo Scottish Wee Light ale promises to be gentle with me, so I go for one of those. And besides it's malty emphasis and Valley Malt ingredients, (including smoked oats!) proves a good showcase for locally grown grains. Velvety and comforting, like a peaty, smoky, Scotch whisky and water, I swish some along the roof of my mouth to catch a flash of yeasty funk and toasty oat flavor.
I guess the hops used here are Kent Goldings, and I am close. McKnight says she used U.S. Goldings to achieve a flowery, peppery highlight. Less than four percent alcohol, but so much comforting goodness in it that I feel relaxed enough to deal with another hour of aggressive drivers.
Not only does Watch City make great beer with great local ingredients, but the brewers, McKnight and Lee Lord, are friendly and down to earth. Not that I am surprised anymore at the open welcome I receive whenever I encounter someone working with local farm products, but I am always aware of the fact that the people I have been writing about all share the common trait of being some of the coolest people I've ever met. That, plus great beer, makes this project pretty special.
So thanks, Kelly and Lee, I'll see you the Sunday after Thanksgiving at 7pm and I'll bring some books.
http://watchcitybrew.com
